MacFarlane Woods

About the Woods

The MacFarlane Woods Nature Reserve is on Cape Breton Island, at Mull River in the hilly country west of Lake Ainslie. It is part of a region known as Ainslie Uplands, which features hills of folded sedimentary rocks rising to 160 meters above sea level.

The Reserve protects an excellent example of a rich, old-growth Sugar Maple-Yellow Birch-Beech forest. It also hosts rare plants The old-growth, hardwood forest of MacFarlane Woods is part of a virgin stand, and is surrounded by a variety of early successional stands which are utilized to promote natural history education for visitors.

The original 52.5 hectare MacFarlane Woods Nature Reserve was designated in 1988 by the landowner, Mr. Jim St. Clair of Mull River. Between 2001 and 2004, the Nature Conservancy of Canada and the Province of Nova Scotia purchased four adjacent properties, and in 2004, these plus additional lands from Mr. St. Clair's were added to the reserve, bringing it to its present size of 132 hectares.

MacFarlane Woods is in the unceded ancestral territory of the Mi'kmaq known as Unama'ki.

View the Nova Scotia provincial page on the MacFarlane Woods Nature Reserve


Painting credit: MacFarlane Woods by Charles Chisholm

MacFarlane Woods painted by Charles Chisholm

Finding the Woods

To reach MacFarlane Woods from the west side of Cape Breton, turn inland from Route 19 onto SW Ridge Road at the Mabou River Inn, then stay slightly right at the junction with Rankinville Road, and continue about 6.5km (the road will turn to gravel) to the Ridge Road entrance; look for the trailhead sign on your left.

To reach the Mull River Road entrance, continue an additional kilometer or so, then turn left onto Mull River Road. Continue about 2km — past the MacFarlane house at the end of a long lane on your right — until you see the trailhead sign on your left.

There is room to park at the side of the road near either trail entrance.

The property boundaries highlighted here are based on a map produced by the Protected Areas Branch of the Nova Scotia Department of Environment and Labour in 2004, which are a geographic representation only, and copyright of the Province of Nova Scotia.


View the trail on alltrails.com

Learn More

In Jim St Clair's Voice

Jim St. Clair was a descendant of the original colonial settlers of the land that is now the MacFarlane Woods Nature Reserve.

He was a community historian, teacher and naturalist who lived at the family homestead in Mull River for over 50 years.

Mr. St. Clair recognized the quality of the hardwood stand on the family property, and it's unique value for education and research. In the 1980s initiated the process that eventually led to the current 132 hectare Reserve.

CBC's Steve Sutherland, host of Information Morning, interviewed Mr. St. Clair in 2011 about his life's work in Cape Breton. Their discussion included reflections on connecting with nature, with specific mention of the MacFarlane Woods. Listen in below.

Jim St Clair interview with Steve Sutherland, Information Morning, CBC Radio Cape Breton, November 14, 2011


For many years, Mr. St. Clair contributed a "Then and Now" column to the Inverness Oran exploring local history and culture. Several of these columns touched on the history, ecology and stewardship of the MacFarlane Woods; one of these stories is listed below.

Four Mi'kmaw women sitting in front of their wigwams by Paul-Émile Miot

The Mi'kmaw Trail

Cape Breton Island was first inhabited by Nova Scotia's First Peoples, the Mi'kmaw, whose linguistic and cultural legacy continue to inform the island's heritage. The island is Unama'ki in Mi'kmaw, meaning Land of Fog. On this their ancestral and unceded land, the Mi'kmaw lived for thousands of years before colonial settlers came, interacted and colonized, giving these places other names and impacting the Mi'kmaw communities via their own respective linguistic and cultural presence.

Because of its protected harbor and long sandbar beaches that created a natural stopping place for many early visitors, the Mi'kmaw place name Kek-weom-kek (Sandbar) succinctly describes the area now referred to in English as Port Hood. The Mi'kmaw place name Mulapukuek (The Place Where Two Rivers Meet) conveys in topographical terms the area referred to in English as Mabou, the nearest town to the MacFarlane Woods site.

The MacFarlane Woods Nature Reserve is the site of an historic path that ran from the coastal community of Kek-weom-kek (Port Hood) through the inland woods to Quspemk (South Lake Ainslie).


This description was adapted in part from the Walking Tour Journal: Camino Nova Scotia produced by the Province of Nova Scotia in partnership with the Atlantic School of Theology and the Office of Gaelic Affairs.

MacFarlane House by Julie St. Clair

History of the MacFarlane Woods Reserve

The MacFarlane family immigrated from the Isle of Mull in Scotland in 1820, settling in Mull River to farm and work the woods. The hardwood forest of the hilltop on the property was never cut and is a rare example of the Maple, Beech and Yellow Birch forest that covered most of the area before Europeans arrived.

Jim St. Clair, a descendant of the original colonial settlers, recognized the unique quality of the hardwood stand and offered it as a nature reserve, to be managed jointly by himself and the Nova Scotia Museum as a Special Place, so that it could be preserved and enjoyed by all Nova Scotians. This plan was made public in 1987 when the community of Mabou celebrated its 200th year of continuous settlement. In 1988, just over 50 hectares was designed as a Nature Reserve under the Special Places Protection Act.

Between 2001 and 2004, the Nature Conservancy of Canada and the Province of Nova Scotia, with generous cooperation from local landowner Arnold Rankin, purchased four adjacent properties. In 2004, these properties plus additional lands from Mr. St. Clair were added to the reserve under the Special Places Act, bringing it to its present size of 132 hectares.

For many years Mr. St. Clair led tours of woods for schoolchildren, seniors and groups of naturalists. Former area teacher Nadine Hunt recalls the value for her students of exploring the MacFarlane Woods:

Making the short trek from the school in Mabou to MacFarlane Woods was a highlight for my high school biology students. The Woods were a living ecology laboratory as it brought to life terms like succession, climax forest and sustainably. It also allows students to engage in field studies and data collection in a very hands-on way.Nadine Hunt

In addition to introducing visitors to the unique flora and fauna, Mr. St. Clair would share the history of the land, including the fact that a Mi'kmaw trail linking the coastal town of Port Hood and Lake Ainslie had passed through the property.

Following Jim St Clair's passing in 2021 at the age of 90, the MacFarlane family descendants continue to steward the homestead and forest. In collaboration with the Province of Nova Scotia, the Nature Conservancy of Canada, longtime family friend and conservationist David Rumsey and others, the family is working to ensure that the MacFarlane Woods remain accessible to all in perpetuity.


The description was adapted in part from the MacFarlane Woods Nature Reserve Special Place brochure, produced by the Nova Scotia Department of Education, Nova Scotia Museum Complex.

Life in a Climax Hardwood Forest

From either MacFarlane Woods entrance, the trail winds uphill passing through younger forest in the process of regeneration from abandoned fields and cut-over areas. The trees that grow here on the slopes of the hill - White Spruce, Balsam Fir, Red Maple and White Birch - are examples of early-growth forest species.

At the edge of the climax forest the grandeur of the towering Yellow Birch, Red Maple and Sugar Maple trees is impressive. Some of the trees are 30m high and a meter in diameter. Although there is often dense ground cover of young trees and other woodland plants, the forest appears open because the canopy is at least 20m overhead.

Large Beech trees are present but, as is common in Nova Scotia, most are small and deformed by beech-bark fungus. Other trees present are Ironwood, White Ash, Striped Maple, Red Spruce and Balsam Fir.

Because hardwood trees lose their leaves in the fall, the ground in the climax forest is covered with a thick layer of humus and leaf litter. In the spring, before the gumtree leaves are fully out, sunlight reaches the ground and a host of woodland plants are able to grow and flower.

In June, the forest floor is dotted with violets, Wood Sorrel, Starflower and Bunchberry. Unusual plants such as Rattlesnake Fern and Twayblade Orchid are also found.

Later in the season, under the dense shade of the forest canopy, various mushrooms and the pale Coral Root Orchid appear. The old trees and undisturbed ground are covered with dense growths of lichens, mosses and ferns.

The rich humus and the rotting trunks and limbs of fallen trees provide a moist habitat for snails, beetles, millipedes and a variety of other small creatures. These assist in decomposing fallen matter to soil, and provide food for the Red-backed Salamanders and Wood Frogs found in the woods.

The forest canopy also has abundant bird life in the early summer.

Forest Succession

Succession is a term used in forest ecology to describe the process by which one group of trees growing on a site provides conditions which favor the growth of other tree species.

Succession begins with a pioneer group of trees growing on an open site which gradually creates conditions suitable for other trees that thrive in shady conditions. As these new trees grow they overwhelm the pioneer species and replace them. Eventually the forest community stabilizes and a climax, or mature, foret becomes established.

In upland areas like MacFarlane Woods where the soil is relatively rich and well-drained, a climax forest of Sugar Maple, Beech and Yellow Birch will develop. At this stage of succession these species perpetuate themselves, the seedlings growing in the protective shade of the older trees. A characteristic of the climax forest is that trees of all ages, from seedlings to standing dead trunks, occur together on the same site.


The description was adapted from the MacFarlane Woods Nature Reserve Special Place brochure, produced by the Nova Scotia Department of Education, Nova Scotia Museum Complex.

Enjoying the trail

There are two entrances to the MacFarlane Woods trail, one on SW Ridge Road and the other on Mull River Road. In 2023 a loop trail was added, so from either entrance hikers can take the trail to through the climax forest and partway down the slope, then take the loop trail to circle back to the trail where they entered the woods.

The loop trail is approximately 4km and is easy to moderate hiking. Some sections of the trail are slightly rough with roots or rocks, and on the lower slopes the trail is often muddy, particularly near the Mull River Road entrance. Windfall is cleared annually, but if you find a blockage or other damage to the trail, please use the contact form on this site to let us know.

When you visit the MacFarlane Woods or any other natural area, please treat the site as you would treat a friend's home. Please stay on the marked trail, and remember that:

  • The plants and animals belong here. Please don't pick flowers or collect other specimens.
  • Garbage and litter don't belong. Please take it away with you.
  • The Reserve is closed from dusk to dawn. No camping please.
  • Fires can destroy quickly and totally. No smoking or open fires, please.

We hope you enjoy the woods! We invite you to submit photos for the Gallery and any reflections about your hike through the contact form on this site.


The description was adapted in part from the MacFarlane Woods Nature Reserve Special Place brochure, produced by the Nova Scotia Department of Education, Nova Scotia Museum Complex.

Contact us

Use this form to send us reflections from your hike, suggestions for making the MacFarlane Woods more accessible, or information about a blocked or damaged portion of the trail.

You can also use this form to let us know if you have a photo from your hike that you'd like to submit for in the Gallery, we'll get back to you with what information to include and where to send.

Thank you!